Walking the West Highland Way Day 7: Glencoe to Kinlochleven – Devil’s Staircase
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Amazing highland scenery on day 7 as I huff and puff my way up Devil’s Staircase on the West Highland Way.
Start from the beginning with West Highland Way day 1: Milngavie to Drymen or see all West Highland Way posts.
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Morning in Glencoe, Scotland
It was a beautiful morning at Glencoe Mountain Resort. The resort is nestled in the mountains which were a stunning backdrop for the pale blue and pink clouds tinted by the rising sun as bird’s sang in the trees. I had breakfast at resort then headed out to re-join the West Highland Way.
The walk took me by Black Rock Cottage – an oft-photographed stone cottage that sits in front of Buachaille Etive Mòr mountain. I didn’t get a great picture of it – I was too far away by the time I tried.
Kingshouse Hotel on the West Highland Way
I crossed the road in front of the resort and joined the West Highland Way, which continued parallel to the busy road. I reached Kingshouse Hotel soon after. The original Kingshouse Hotel was built in the 18th century for travellers crossing Rannoch Moor. It was positioned near the military road, part of which is now the West Highland Way.
There were a lot of walkers on the trail through here. With fewer places to stay, all the walkers tend to bunch together more than on other areas of the trail. I think there were also a lot of day hikers out enjoying the beauty of Glencoe.
Buachaille Etive Mòr
The West Highland Way through here had amazing views of Buachaille Etive Mòr, a large, distinctive mountain, recognizable by its pyramid shape. Dramatic clouds hovered over it and draped across its shoulders.
The trail was paved for the first couple of miles as it ran parallel to the highway. There was a large sign marking where to turn away from the road, and there the trail was unpaved.
The West Highland Way begain to gain elevation but it was very gradual. It still ran parallel to the highway, but was farther above it now.
The trail went by the parking lot for Buachaille Etive Mòr, then turned away from the road for the approach to Devil’s Staircase. It began as a long climb, but not too steep.
It was a stony path with large, mostly flat stones, a bit like stairs. Eventually it got steeper, with numerous switchbacks.
Climbing Devil’s Staircase on the West Highland Way
I hate to go uphill. There’s something about being winded that makes me especially miserable. I had gone 5.3 miles since leaving Glencoe Mountain Resort and was still climbing. It wasn’t a difficult climb, but it was long and I stopped to catch my breath more than once.
About the midway point of the long climb up Devil’s Staircase that I decided I would not be climbing to the top of Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in Britain. It was near the end of the West Highland Way and I had planned my itinerary to be able to climb it if I wanted to. As I huffed and puffed my way up Devil’s Staircase, I decided I most definitely did not want to climb Ben Nevis.
The trail through here was covered with mostly smaller, gravelly stones, along with some larger ones and some sections that are all rock.
Near the top of Devil’s Staircase was a rocky section with some great views looking back where I came from. It was a great spot for a snack and a drink while enjoying the views (and catching my breath) before reaching the top of Devil’s Staircase.
Is Devil’s Staircase on the West Highland Way hard?
It’s not hard in a technical way – it’s hard in that it’s steep enough to run you out of breath (well, maybe not everyone, but it definitely ran me out of breath). There are switchbacks so it’s nothing too complicated.
How does Devil’s Staircase compare to the hike along Loch Lomond? Is Devil’s Staircase more difficult?
The rocky section near Inversnaid along Loch Lomond is harder to hike because of the multiple ups and downs and the difficulty of hiking over the rocks. Devil’s Staircase is hard because it is long and steep. I personally don’t like long and steep, but if you are easily winded like me, you can stop to catch your breath then continue on. I never had a “I don’t think I can do this” moment, it was more of an opportunity to re-think my life choices (common when I am going uphill). I think the stretch along Loch Lomond was more difficult than hiking Devil’s Staircase.
Descent from Devil’s Staircase on the West Highland Way
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The descent from Devil’s Staircase had beautiful views across the mountains. The trail was stony and long, and mostly gradual for a while. It wound in and around the mountains. Loose gravel meant careful walking, and there were some small stream crossings over rocks. It was scenic and peaceful.
While I’d seen a lot of people climbing Devil’s Staircase there weren’t many people on the descent. I think there were a lot of day hikers climbing Devil’s Staircase to enjoy the views.
Kinlochleven is in sight
I had walked 7 miles so far from Glencoe Mountain Resort and I could see Kinlochleven down below in the distance. The descent was still reasonably gradual. I thought I had about a mile left to town but, as happened regularly on the West Highland Way, it was more.
Down, down, down to Kinlochleven
The trail turned into a gravel road and that’s where it got steep. Really steep. My knees were aching and my blistered feet were tired. I also realized I had farther to go than I expected, which makes it more challenging mentally.
The road was steeper than I expected and it went on for what felt like forever – an additional 2 miles farther than I expected. I thought it would be 9 miles, but it was 11. Google Maps said it’s mostly flat and it definitely was not. The scenery was beautiful, but the road was so long and steep – I was almost jogging at times.
The bridge over the pipes – why I recommend the guidebook
At the bottom of the hill (at last) was a bridge over some big pipes for a hydroelectric facility. The guidebook very clearly said that would would take the bridge over the pipes, which is why I recommend this guidebook. It has clear maps, with clear descriptions, and I love knowing what to expect.
Get the West Highland Way guidebook
I love this guidebook! The maps are great – hand drawn with just the right amount of detail. It’s how I planned my route and I scanned the map pages to take with me. See the guidebook
Into Kinlochleven
Not long after I crossed the pipes I was finally off the road and onto a more level trail. I was at 10.2 miles and was just outside of Kinlochleven. I reached the town, walking along the road by houses. The trail veered off the side of the road through a small park along the river – very scenic!
Then it was walking through town along the road again until I reached Macdonald Hotel & Cabins. I was staying in a tent site near the cabins.
Macdonald Hotel & Cabins (and camping!)
I was just past the 11 mile mark when I reached Macdonald Hotel. What a beautiful setting with a view up the loch!
The camping area had, along with the tent pitch, a series of cabins. There were nearby toilets, showers, and a kitchen area. The MacDonald Hotel also has a restaurant.
Scottish midges on the West Highland Way
It was just starting to rain as I sent my tent up and I set it up in a hurry because I was SWARMED with midges. There had been a few here and there along the Way but this was like nothing I’d ever seen before. They are so tiny and there are swarms of them. It’s hard to not breathe them in because they get up in your face.
I sent my tent up in such a hurry that I didn’t do a great job – my lines were a bit more slack than they should have been – but I had to get out of the midges.
Inside my tent I discovered a hole – about an inch long – in the tent screen. I patched it up with some duct tape to make sure I didn’t let any of the pesky Scottish midges in.
Restaurant at MacDonald Hotel
I went into the restaurant for dinner where I had half a chicken and a beer. I love this about the West Highland Way – it’s so much better than having backpacker meals every day!
Rainy evening on the West Highland Way
It was a rainy evening and I relaxed in my tent which ended up a little wet around the edges since I didn’t stake it out very well. But I was very near the end – I figured I could survive one last night with wet gear.
The next day I had a campsite booked near the foot of Ben Nevis. I had made those arrangements thinking I might hike the mountain but also knowing I might not be up for it. And Devil’s Staircase had convinced me I wasn’t up for it. I like my climbs gradual – and that’s not what Ben Nevis is!
My options were to finish tomorrow and go back to the Glen Nevis Campground near Ben Nevis to spend the night, or stop at Glen Nevis then make the short walk into Fort William the following day. I didn’t need to decide until I got there – I would decide on the way.
I fell asleep to the sound of other people snoring (the joys of tent camping), and realizing how close I was to the end of the West Highland Way.
Can you tell me how long this took in hours? I am trying to bus into Glencoe from Glasgow that morning AND complete this section of the trail… is it doable in Summer daylight hours?
Actual hiking time for me was 5 1/2 hours – hope that helps!