Isle Royale part 5: On the Minong Ridge to Todd Harbor
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Isle Royale end-to-end loop hike part 5 – On the Minong Ridge from McCargoe Cove to Todd Harbor
In this 5th post on my Isle Royale end-to-end backpacking trip, I leave Minong Mine and hike on the Minong Ridge Trail to Todd Harbor campground.
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On the Minong Ridge Trail
The hike from McCargoe Cove to Todd Harbor was supposed to be around 6.7 miles. I took the side trip to Minong Mine, which would add a some distance, but it wasn’t terrible.
I read in the Isle Royale guidebook that I would cross a creek, and then there would only be 1.5 miles left to get to the campground. I reached the creek sooner than expected, and realized I could be at Todd Harbor for lunch.
It’s hard to tell in a photo, but the leaves on this plant are huge! 
A beaver’s unfinished work. 
The trail is in here if you look closely. 
A cairn on the Minong Ridge Trail, Isle Royale National Park
I kept going. And going. And going. And there was no campground in site. It wasn’t a long distance, but I had let my mind get ahead of my feet, and it was soul crushing. My feet were killing me as I was still struggling with the boots, and I was hungry, too.
Eventually I reached another creek and realized my mistake. There were two creeks, so I still had another 1.5 miles to go. I was definitely going to stop for lunch, and I learned a lesson about checking the map more frequently. The creek was in the sun, so I crossed it and followed the trail under some trees to have lunch in the shade.
Lunch on the trail
I unpacked my Helinox Zero chair so I could have my lunch in comfort, and set it up on the edge of the trail. It kept sinking into the soft dirt, so I ended up moving the chair directly into the middle of the trail and having my lunch there. I hadn’t seen anyone else since I left McCargoe Cove in the morning, and fortunately that didn’t change as I sat in the middle of the trail to eat my lunch.
I finished lunch and packed up, energized for the last 1.5 miles. Just a short way down the trail I saw a sign with a “6” on it. I trail cut off to the left by the sign. This was confusing as I hadn’t seen another trail marker like it. Why was there a “6”? Which one was the main trail? As I was trying to figure it out, I saw a picnic table. It was campsite #6, not a trail marker. I had made it to the campground, which was just past the creek.
I have no idea what happened. The first creek was more than a mile and a half, and the second was was nearly at the campground. I was so confused, but so glad to have made it!
Todd Harbor Campground
Todd Harbor has one shelter, and the rest are tent sites. The tent sites were near the water and looked amazing, but I was spoiled by the comfort and space of the Isle Royale shelters. There was no one else at the campground, and I had not seen a single person on the trail all day. I went ahead and put my things in the shelter.
There was a fly swatter in the shelter – that was the first time that had happened. Usually there was a broom and nothing else. I didn’t realize the fly swatter was a warning.
The lone Todd Harbor shelter is near the latrine, and is directly across from a fire pit and water access. There was a view of the water, though not as nice as from some of the tent sites.
I don’t condone graffiti, but this was a good one. 
A fly swatter in the shelter was a bad sign, but I put it to use.
I did some laundry (rinsed my clothes anyway) and got cleaned up. A group of about 6 people showed up. They went swimming and chatted for a bit, but they were just getting cooled off before continuing to Hatchet Lake. It looked like I might get the campground to myself.
Haytown Mine, Isle Royale National Park
Haytown Mine is near the Todd Harbor Campground, so I hiked out to see it. It was a half mile round trip, so not far. Especially easy without my full pack! There was a pit and some poor rock. Not a lot to see, but it was an easy hike.
Todd Harbor Sunset
After dinner, I moved my chair down by the water. This was in part to watch the sunset, but also to avoid the flies. There were still flies down by the water, but they were 10 times worse at the shelter. As the sun dropped lower, dragonflies came out to catch mosquitos, so that helped some of the bug situation.
Colorful stones on the beach at Todd Harbor, Isle Royale National Park 
Mergansers swimming in the light of the sunset, Todd Harbor Campground
Sitting by the water, gentle waves were lapping at the shore. The waves pushed the small stones of the beach back and forth, making a gentle ticking sound. The watercolor skies were dotted with seagulls. It was so peaceful.
Two other people showed up just before sunset. They were hiking the opposite direction – coming from Windigo – and they’d had a long, difficult hike. They set up tents and went to bed early.
A small island off Todd Harbor Campground 
The colors of the sunset reflected in the water at Todd Habor 
Todd Harbor, just before sunset 
The stunning sunset from Todd Harbor Campground on Isle Royale
The sunset from Todd Harbor Campground was stunning! There are small islands that dot the horizon, and the sun turned a brilliant orange before plunging below the water line between the islands.
Next: Isle Royale part 6: On the Minong Ridge to Little Todd Harbor
Missed the beginning of the series? Read Isle Royale part 1: Planning & Training
