Backpacking Isle Royale 13: Washington Creek to S. Lake Desor
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Isle Royale end-to-end solo loop hike part 13: On the Greenstone Ridge Trail from Windigo to S. Lake Decor
It was day 8 of my backpacking trip on Isle Royale, and the start of my return journey. I had hiked from Rock Harbor to Windigo on the Minong Ridge trail and was now returning on the Greenstone Ridge Trail.
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Backpacking on the Greenstone Ridge Trail from Windigo
The trail had a fair amount of elevation gain in the morning (for Isle Royale) but it was very much the trail that Ranger Valerie had promised me (see episode 12). It was tree covered and the inclines were far more gentle than the last day on the Minong Ridge Trail had been. My backpack was heavy again because of the food resupply box I picked up in Windigo, but the gentler trail made it bearable. (Not to mention that I was in better shape after hiking for the last week.)
There were moss covered rocks, plenty of shade, small streams, and birds were singing. It was beautiful – very peaceful and relaxing. Much less rockiness than what I’d experienced on the Minong Ridge Trail. It didn’t have the sweeping view of the Minong since it was wooded, but it was a great hike.
The highest point on Isle Royale
The tallest point on Isle Royale is Mount Desor, with an elevation of 1,394 feet. Don’t expect too many mountain views – it’s completely tree covered and not all that steep to get there – you wouldn’t know you were there if you weren’t watching the map.
S. Lake Desor Campground on Isle Royale
My GPS tracked 12.39 miles to get from my shelter at Washington Creek to the campground at South Lake Desor. It was a long day, but it was much easier than hiking on the Minong. It was a dirt trail – not rock – and the inclines were much gentler than on the Minong.
S. Lake Desor is an inland campground, which means only tent sites, no shelters. I picked site #3, set up camp, and got cleaned up. It was a long, steep path to the lake for water. I filled up, then went back to my tent for a nap.
Sunset at South Lake Desor
I trekked back down to the lake to catch another amazing Isle Royale sunset. It was a cloud evening, but the sun break free beneath the clouds as it set behind the trees, casting an orange glow across Lake Desor to the rocky shore.
A moose in my camp!
I was back in my tent catching up on my trip journal when I heard a noise outside – the sound of vegetation being torn up. I unzipped my tent and looked out to find a large bull moose right behind my site in the trees. He had MASSIVE antlers, and was tearing plants out of the ground. I watched him until he disappeared into the trees.
Later that night after I was asleep, he came back. I heard him stomping and thrashing about, pulling plants from the ground. I lie quietly in my tent hoping he wouldn’t step on me. Then I remembered the ranger had said that moose noses are more sensitive than a German Shepherd’s. I figured he knew I was there and didn’t want to step on me, so I should be fine. I went back to sleep only waking for the very loudest stomps.
Start from the beginning with Backpacking Isle Royale Part 1: Planning & Training.
