Isle Royale end-to-end loop hike: Part 2 Rock Harbor to Daisy Farm

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Isle Royale Part 2: Taking the Ranger III, hiking from Rock Harbor to Daisy Farm

After a 6 hour ferry ride on the Ranger from Houghton Michigan, I was finally on the island! I set out on the Tobin Harbor Trail and had my first moose encounter in my first hour on the island. The calm, quiet, and solitude of the island settled over me. I was surrounded by the green of the trees, there were ladies slippers in bloom along the trail, and the striking blue of the water was alongside me. It was everything I had hoped for!

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Start from the beginning with Backpacking Isle Royale Part 1: Planning & Training.

Next episode: Part 3 Daisy Farm to McCargoe Cove.

Ranger III to Isle Royale

I took the Ranger III from Houghton to get to the island. It was a relaxing 6 hour ferry ride. There was a short stop at Mott Island, the park headquarters, then it was on to Rock Harbor. Once off the ferry, you get your pack, fill up your water from a spigot behind the store, then hit the trail.

Read about my decision to take the Ranger III in a previous post

Tobin Harbor Trail

I took the Tobin Harbor trail. It parallels the Rock Harbor Trail, but tends to get less foot traffic off the ferry. It’s also easier than the Rock Harbor Trail, which is very rocky! I intended to take the Rock Harbor Trail on my return, so that meant I would get to see both.

It didn’t take long before I could feel the stillness around me. This is one of the special things about Isle Royale – you feel so far away from everything. It was a beautiful sunny day, surrounded by the green trees and the blue water, and such stillness in the air.

My plan was to take the Tobin Harbor trail, then turn off of it to go towards Suzy’s Cave. From Suzy’s Cave I would continue to the Rock Harbor Trail and then take that to Daisy Farm.

My first moose of my Isle Royale trip – on day 1!

I was still on the Tobin Harbor Trail (I’d been on the island less than an hour) when I saw it – my first moose of the trip! On my previous trip to the island in 2015, I had only seen one moose, and that was on the last day of the trip. And here was one in my first hour!

It was a cow moose, standing in the water to my right, just off the trail. I backpack and hike alone regular, and am comfortable doing that. I hadn’t really thought through how it would feel to encounter a moose alone on the trail, though. Is it safe to walk by, or is it better to wait? I waited and watched until I felt more comfortable, and then I went by. We both kept on eye on each other as I passed by her, but everything was fine. I hoped this first moose sighting so soon meant there would be many more on the trip!

Rock Harbor Trail on Isle Royale

I turned off the Tobin Harbor Trail not long after the moose sighting, and passed by Suzy’s Cave. After a short visit to the cave, I continued on to the Rock Harbor Trail. The Rock Harbor Trail is the more difficult of the two trails, because it is very rocky. Much of it was exposed, too, and was very hot in the afternoon sun. I decided I would get on the trail early every morning, to avoid the hottest parts of the day.

Eventually I saw the sign for Daisy Farm – I had made it! I stopped at one of the first shelters I saw, ready to be done for the day. I had survived day one on the island, with a 44 lb pack. My pack would be a little lighter for day 2, as I would eat a couple of meals before hitting the trail again.

Next: Isle Royale part 3: Daisy Farm to McCargoe Cove

Missed the beginning? Read Isle Royale part 1: Planning & Training

Isle Royale Backpacking - Rock Harbor to Daisy Farm. Sun shining on a rocky trail