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Day 3 of my West Highland Way solo hike in Scotland was magical! Waterfall after waterfall for miles on the way to Inversnaid where I had lunch with a view of the loch.

Start from the beginning with West Highland Way day 1: Milngavie to Drymen or see all West Highland Way posts.

https://youtu.be/WvEHutEe2gs

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Leaving Ben Lomond Bunkhouse in Rowardennan on the West Highland Way

I dropped off my large bag in the luggage storage box and started along the West Highland Way, which was wide and smooth here. Not long into the hike there is a decision to make – the high route or the low route along Loch Lomond.

Choosing the high route or the low route from Rowardennan to Inverarnan

The low route is said to be rockier and more difficult. The high route is easier with waterfall views. The hike the day before from Drymen to Rowardennan had been really long and tough and I had another long hiking day ahead of me. I had estimated it at 14 miles, and I think it turned out to be a little longer than that (which seemed to be a pattern on the trail – it was always longer than estimated!)

I chose the high road, both because I needed an ‘easier’ hike and I thought the waterfalls would be especially lovely after the rain. It was definitely a good choice.

Waterfalls on the West Highland Way

The high route out of Rowardennan on the way to Inverarnan began a long, steady climb. It was such a gentle grade that it was not a difficult climb. I saw my first waterfall not long after I started the trail. Less than a mile in I had seen four of them. Some were tall and quickly flowing. Some were water gently trickling through moss-covered rocks.

Sometimes the waterfall became a stream that crossed the trail, so you cross on rocks or step across. It was incredibly scenic and really magical. And filled with ferns and moss – two of my favorite things.

Walking along the trail I could usually hear the waterfalls before I saw them. It was so soothing and they were stunning to look at it. The light was filtering through the trees, the trees and plants were lush and green with water spilling over rocks and through moss. Absolutely magical. So many times on the West Highland Way I felt like I’d stumbled into a magical fairy tale land.

Views of Loch Lomond on the West Highland Way

Eventually the high route and the low route merged together into one trail. There were plenty of views of Loch Lomond, my second day to walk along the largest loch in Britain. It was cloudy for most of the day, and the clouds topped the hills across the Loch.

Rob Roy’s cave

This is the section of the West Highland Way where you can turn off to see Rob Roy’s cave. Allegedly Rob Roy stayed here and it was a quite a tourist attraction for a while. I had planned to turn off and see it but I never saw where to turn for it. No one else I talked to did either. I guess if Rob Roy needed to use it as a hideout, it was very well hidden. Funny thing is the guidebook says the word “CAVE” is painted in giant letters outside it, but I suppose you have to get there before you can see that. I certainly didn’t see any signs pointing to it from the West Highland Way.

The route gets rocky on the way to Inversnaid, between Rowardennan and Inverarnan

I had been warned by Alex at Ben Lomond Bunkhouse that the trail would get very rocky and more difficult after Inversnaid. It began to get that way as I got closer.

Inversnaid Falls

You know you are close to Inversnaid when you can hear the roar of Inversnaid Falls. The water rushes over rocks then under a bridge dropping several meters. The West Highland Way trail uses the bridge to cross over the falls, bringing you to the Inversnaid Hotel. I stopped for lunch (protein bars and snacks) just beyond the hotel on a bench with a lovely loch view.

https://youtu.be/FlMGqKsk6h4

The hardest part of the West Highland Way – rocky trail after Inversnaid

I had been warned by Alex at Ben Lomond Bunkhouse that the West Highland Way after Inversnaid was difficult with a lot of rocks, and that was very accurate. The trail was rocky, and I’m not talking about little stones. Big stones that you had to carefully step around and, in some cases, scramble up or down.

I found this to be the most difficult stretch of the West Highland Way. It wasn’t ridiculously steep, but there were a lot of ups and downs, and many of them were over rock. It was a lot of effort – both physical and mental, as it took a lot of focus to be careful climbing up, over, and around the rocks, particularly when many of them were wet and slippery.

Aggressive ferns along Loch Lomond

Eventually the trail opened up and instead of rocks, I was surrounded by aggressive ferns. At least that’s how I heard them described. Their clinging arms reach out across the trail to grab you and, as it had started raining, they were very wet.

The end of Loch Lomond?

As the trail opened I was also able to see the end of Loch Lomond, or at least what looked like the end. Yeah, it was not the end. I thought I reached the end 3 or 4 times before I actually reached the end.

A difficult stretch of the West Highland Way between Inversnaid and Inverarnan

This stretch of trail along Loch Lomond was really tough. Incredibly beautiful, but tough. My knees were still mad about Conic Hill and they hadn’t had much of break. There was a section with a steep set of stairs – almost like a ladder – along with all the up and down scrambles on, over, and around the rocks. But there were still plenty of small waterfalls, stream crossings, and of course lovely views of Loch Lomond.

Doune Bothy on the West Highland Way

This is the section of the West Highland Way where you pass by Doune Bothy. If you don’t know, bothies are shelters – left unlocked – where hikers can sleep or take refuge from bad weather, free of charge.

I wasn’t staying as I had a reservation at the Drover’s Inn, but I did take a look inside. It has a sturdy door, a couple of small windows, a fireplace, table and chairs, and some platforms you can sleep on. Nothing fancy, but a roof over your head and a beautiful location on Loch Lomond.

The end of Loch Lomond, for real

After Doune Bothy on the West Highland Way I passed by the ferry to Ardlui, still along the banks of Loch Lomond. There were a couple of stile crossings but the fences were low enough to step over, even with my aching knees.

Eventually I reached the real end of Loch Lomond, which involved a climb out. Nothing terrible, just enough to be winded. If you do this, make sure to turn around at the top for lovely views of Loch Lomond and, when I was there, the heather in bloom.

Inverarnan on the West Highland Way

I walked on through rain and mud, reaching Beinglas Campsite, which meant I was getting close to my final destination at Drover’s Inn in Inverarnan. I walked along the road for a while and was completely soaked by the time I reached the Inn.

Drover’s Inn in Inverarnan

I booked my trip on the West Highland Way only a month before a left and, at the time I booked, there was only one room left at the Drover’s Inn. It’s a bit pricey considering it has a shared bathroom, but it is AMAZING! I like old buildings and buildings with a lot of character, and the Drover’s Inn is all that and more.

The Drover’s Inn is over 300 years old, having been around since 1705, and was long a popular rest stop for cattle herders, or drovers as they’re called. Today it’s a hotel and a restaurant and is known for being one of the most haunted hotels in Britain.

I arrived soaking wet and the young woman at reception was kind enough to give me some paper towels to staunch the rivers of water pouring off me. My room was #5 on the top floor and that young woman at reception also carried my big, heavy bag up to my room which was incredibly kind! I went to my room and promptly went down the hall for a shower, then spent some time patching up my poor, blistered feet.

I had a dinner reservation in the evening and WHAT. A. MEAL. I had been on the trail a few days now, so I reached the point where I was giddy about food. Warm goat cheese salad. Steak pie. Beer. It was perfect.

Wet clothes = stinky room

My clothes had been wet for a couple of days now so I hung them up in my room to dry before dinner. When I came back, my room smelled so bad I gagged. Gross, but what can you do? I hoped that if they dried a bit maybe they wouldn’t smell so bad the next day.

Ghosts in the Drover’s Inn

Did I have any ghost encounters in the haunted Drover’s Inn? I wouldn’t know because tired hikers sleep like the dead.